Drink with Roger Jones | South Africa

South Africa’s wine industry has evolved significantly over the past decade. While the country remains well known for established styles such as Chenin Blanc, Pinotage and Cap Classic, it has also made notable strides in several other categories.

South African wine sales in the UK are thriving, driven by high demand for quality, diversity, and well-priced wines. Here I look at examples of grape varieties and regions where South African producers are delivering particularly compelling results away from the classics.

WHITE WINE

VIOGNIER

South African Viognier is typically aromatic and expressive, offering notes of stone fruit and florals with a fresh yet textured palate. A leading producer is Sam O’Keefe of Lismore Estate in Greyton, Overberg, whose wines have become benchmarks for the variety. O’Keefe also produces world-class Syrah wines.

Lismore The Age of Grace Viognier 2023

Elegantly perfumed with honeysuckle and orange blossom, showing apricot and ripe pineapple on the palate. Whole-bunch pressed and fermented in older Burgundian barrels and concrete eggs, it finishes silky, fresh, and delicately balanced.

SAUVIGNON BLANC

Klein Constantia is internationally recognised for Vin de Constance, a historic sweet wine favoured by Napoleon, and, under winemaker Matt Day, the estate has also proved itself as a leading producer of Sauvignon Blanc. Influenced by the style of Sancerre (Sauvignon Blanc) from the Loire, these wines combine precision with texture. Matt worked in the Loire with Pascal Jolivet, who also consults at the Klein Constantia Estate.

Klein Constantia Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2023

A benchmark expression, showing grapefruit and lime aromatics alongside quince, orange zest, and citrus blossom. Refined and textural, with vibrant acidity and a crisp finish.

CHARDONNAY

Hemel-en-Aarde, meaning heaven on earth, is a cool, coastal region overlooking Walker Bay. Its maritime influence and elevation make it ideally suited to Chardonnay. Crystallum, founded in 2007 by brothers Peter-Allan and Andrew Finlayson, sources fruit from across the region to produce wines of clarity and finesse. 

Crystallum The Agnes Chardonnay 2023

Fresh green apple and spearmint lead into white nectarine, ripe pear, and crisp apple. Subtle flint and matchstick notes add complexity, with a saline, focused finish.

SEMILLON

South African Semillon, particularly from older Franschhoek vines, is seen as a premium historic wine. Often yielding a rich, waxy, and complex wine with great age ability. 

Boekenhoutskloof Semillon 2023 

Pale yellow with notes of lime cordial and a zingy pink grapefruit freshness on the nose. Vibrant and fresh in the mouth, with some salinity. Peach tea, ginger, and honey mingle with apples, pears, and fresh pineapple. Elegant and evolving, this will age a decade or so. Marc Kent, the owner of this winery, also produces superstar status red wines from Shiraz and Cabernet grapes.

RED WINE

PINOT NOIR

Hemel-en-Arde is South Africa’s premier terroir for the Pinot grape, offering cool-climate, Burgundian-style wines with high acidity, silky tannins, and bright red fruit (strawberry/cherry) mixed with savoury, earthy notes. Key producers include Storm Wines, Crystallum, Hamilton Russell and Newton Johnson. The region is split into three appellations – Valley, Upper Valley, and Ridge – each offering distinct, elegant, and often, perfumed, wines.

Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir 2023

A cool vintage, matured in new and old barrels for 10 months. Purity of red berry and cherry fruit, delicate refined perfume on the nose. As you delve in there are spices and umami notes. Still young but will age beautifully for over a decade or so.

CABERNET FRANC

Raats Family Wines is widely regarded as South Africa’s leading specialist in Cabernet Franc. Founded by Bruwer Raats in 2000, the estate played a key role in setting up the variety as a serious single varietal wine rather than solely a blending part. He produces a full range of Cabernet Francs covering every price range, all delivering fabulous results.

Raats Dolomite Cabernet Franc 2023

The most approachable expression, aged in older oak and concrete to preserve freshness. Floral and vibrant, with dark cherry and herbal notes.

Raats Family Cabernet Franc 2021

More structured and classically styled, with 18 months in French oak. Displays layers of blackberry, tobacco, and spice.

Raats Eden High Density Single Vineyard Cabernet Franc 2021

An ultra-premium wine from a 0.2-hectare vineyard, noted for its intense violet and lavender aromatics, concentration, and finely textured tannins.

CINSAULT

Historically known as Hermitage in South Africa, Cinsault has evolved from a high-yield blending grape into a source of refined, light-bodied red wines. Often produced from old, dry-farmed bush vines, key regions include Stellenbosch, Swartland, and Wellington. Leading proponents include Eben Sadie and Adi Badenhorst.

Eben Sadie Pofadder 2022

Precise and refined, with pure red fruit, subtle spice, and a linear, focused palate. Textural depth is balanced by a clean, elegant finish.

South African Braai

The African braai always involves a braaibroodjie, which means barbecue bread, or barbecue sandwich, as you traditionally cook it over the grill.
It is cooked while the meats are resting, when the coals are a little less hot. This allows the cheese to become melty before the outside gets too crisp. Traditionally made with cheeses, onions, tomato, and chutney, I have elevated it into a Michelin star braaibroodjie with ingredients including extra mature Hafod cheddar, fresh sliced Perigord truffles and sevruga caviar, washed down with a Chenin Blanc sourced from aged bush vines.

South Africa is famous for its Karoo lamb, raised in the arid Karoo region. Feeding on native, aromatic shrubs like wild rosemary and thyme gives the meat a distinct, naturally seasoned, herb-like flavour and succulent texture. The closest to this from the UK would be salt marsh lamb.

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